For a comprehensive Hue Overview, it is essential to trace the growth of the city from its very beginning to what it has become today, along with many additions that have taken place, as it evolved over a course of many years, leaving a mark on the pages of Vietnam's history. Hue was the capital of Vietnam during the feudal rule from 1802 to 1945 under the Nguyen dynasty and subsequently the centre of architectural evolution of the era. Not surprisingly, it is known for the magnificent architecture of its citadels, palaces, royal tombs, pagodas and temples juxtaposed against a lush scenic background of greenery on the banks of the Perfume River, inspiring many poetries and eulogies for their spellbinding beauty.

Nightlife and entertainment

Under the Nguyen emperors Hue was the cultural and artistic as well as political capital of Vietnam. A rich tradition of dance and music evolved from popular culture, from the complex rituals of the court and from religious ceremonies. Though much of this legacy has been lost over the last fifty years, considerable effort has gone into reviving Hué folk songs, Ca Hué, which you can now sample, drifting down the Perfume River on a balmy Hue evening.

Historically the Perfume River was a place of pleasure where prostitutes cruised in their sampans and artists entertained the gentry with poetry and music. While the former officially no longer exist, today's folk-song performances are based on the old traditions, eulogizing the city's beautiful scenery or the ten charms of a Hué woman – including long hair, dreamy eyes, flowing ao dai and a conical hat – while she waits for her lover beside the river. Another popular strain is an improvised courtship song between a boy and girl, and occasionally you'll hear hypnotic, blues-like music, Chau Van, which accompanies the dance-trances at Hon Chen Temple, or the rhythmic chants of sampan rowers. The instruments themselves are intriguing, particularly the percussion section of four bone-china coffee cups and a wooden instrument garnished with old coins. Tickets (40,000–50,000VND) can be arranged through hotels and tour agents. Alternatively, you can catch free performances in the courtyard of the Saigon Morin.

If you like your nightlife a bit more upbeat, then try the DMZ Bar at 44 Le Loi for beers, pool and dancing or the friendly Café on Thu Wheels and Why Not Bar? for cheap beer and loud music. B4 Bar on 75 Ben Nghe, is Belgian-run and offers the best happy hour in town (4–7pm; 6000VND for local beer) and a selection of imported Belgian beer. Other, more laidback options include the Saigon Morin's rooftop bar and the Stop & Go Café (see "Eating" for both).
The city authorities have also instigated a biennial arts festival (held in June) featuring not only folk songs, kite-flying, water-puppetry and other local traditions, but also international groups.

Listings

Airlines Vietnam Airlines, Thuan Hoa Hotel, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong 054/824709.

Airport bus A privately run bus service shuttles to and from the airport (20,000VND). Organize a hotel pick-up via your reception.

Banks and exchange Vietcombank, 78 Hung Vuong, exchanges cash and travellers' cheques and has a 24-hour ATM outside. More convenient is the exchange bureau outside the SaigonMorin hotel. It's also open longer hours (Mon– Sat 7am–10pm) and boasts a 24-hour ATM.

Hospital Hué Central Hospital, 16 Le Loi 054/822325.

Immigration police 45 Ben Nghe. If you lose your passport, this is the place to head for.

Internet access If your hotel doesn't have Internet access then head to the backpacker enclave of Hung Vuong and Nguyen Tri Phuong for Internet cafés.

Pharmacies You'll find well-stocked pharmacies at 9 Hoang Hoa Tham (actually round the corner on Tran Cao Van) and 7 Ben Nghe.

Post office The GPO occupies a grand new building at 8 Hoang Hoa Tham, and also has Internet facilities. Sub-branches are located at 38 Le Loi and in the station complex.

Taxi For a metered taxi call Mai Linh Taxi (ML; 054/898989) or Hué Taxi (054/818181).

Tours and onward transport Mandarin Café, 3 Hung Vuong 054/821281, mandarin@dng.vnn.vn), Sinh Café, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong (054/845022, sinh5hue@dng.vnn.vn), and Green Travel, 8 Hung Vuong (054/849643, phigreentravel@yahoo.com), all offer reliable tours of Hué and the surrounding sights, including Perfume River boat trips, the DMZ and Bach Ma National Park. For motorbike tours, contact Café on Thu Wheels, 3/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong (054/832241, minhthu1970@hotmail.com) or Mandarin Café. For added interest the tour guides at Stop & Go Café, 10 Ben Nghe (054/827051, stop-and-go-cafe@yahoo.com) are former soldiers and have interesting stories to tell. Most of these places can also help arrange hire cars and other onward transport. Open-tour bus operators with offices in Hué include Sinh Café, Green Travel and An Phu Tourist at 11 Nguyen Tri Phuong 054/833897. If you're heading into Laos, your best option is to take the 6am DMZ tour bus as far as Dong Ha, then change to the 8am tourist bus bound for Savannakhet. The total trip takes about 10hr and costs $20.